Page
2 of the interview with
Etienne
Hugel
Would
you please introduce to us your terroir, Riquewihr. It is
one of best in the Alsace region.
Riquewihr
is one of the most well-known terroirs in Alsace since middle-age.
We have two exceptional vintages (grand cru terroir):
- Schoenenbourg:
a chalky-marl terroir, looking over Riquewihr village. It
is our vineyard of predilection for great Riesling.
- Sporen:
a very clayey soil, very heavy, that suits best Gewurz.
We also
have Rosenbourg. A terroir that is not a Grand Cru. It is
more chalky. A good one for Pinot noir and gris grapes.
Alsace
has specific soil for each grape. In Riquewhir we are lucky
to have 3 specific terroirs for the 3 major grapes of the
region (Riesling, Gewurz, Pinot).
We use to say that Hugel wines respect their terroirs
with class. How do you achieve that?
Our philosophy
is that the wine is in the grape. We never use fertilizer.
We let vines live by themselves, with small yield, harvesting
by hand.
All the
wine quality come from what we do with the vine.
Our yield is one third lower than the average alsatian yield.
It is true that the region is knows for its cozy yields, maybe
a little bit too high.
Are you more Riesling or Gewurztraminer at Hugel?
Worldwide,
we are better known for our Gewurz. But we think that our
greatest wines are Riesling.
Between
the two, honestly, it is like choosing between my two children,
it is impossible. The wines are different. The way you taste
them is different.
With fish,
shellfish or lobster, I pick a Riesling.
On the
other hand, Gewurz is a wine which offers fantastic harmony
with asiatic food. In my opinion Gewurz is really what makes
Alsace unique. It is the only reference in the world for Gewurz.
What is the most noble between the two?
Riesling
in the absolute is the noblest.
Michel Bettane - famous wine writer - says that Riesling is
the greatest white grape in the world.
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Etienne Hugel
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